NEW PUPPY CARE SHEET

Purchase date:_____/____/_____ Exam date required by: _____/____/_____

Age_____ Breed:___________________ Sex:___________ Neutered: Yes / No Hernia Repair: Yes / No ______________ Microchip#:_________________________ Neuter date:_____________________(6 months old)

Congratulations on adding a new puppy to your family! This handout is designed to make your life easier and your pet’s life healthier. Please take a few minutes to look over some key points. The information recommended here is based on veterinary practice standards established over the past 60 years and with our parent organization, the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA). These are intended to keep your pet OUT of the vet’s office as much as possible. Even though your pet was checked before and again after entering the store, it is important to get your puppy checked as soon as possible after purchase to evaluate their health. The standard time for a new puppy health exam in the pet industry is 3 days (72 hrs). This is designed to avoid having the puppies pick up new diseases after purchase that may result in additional cost and care. Getting a health exam on time will limit your medical and financial responsibilities as detailed in your purchase agreement.

Puppies are complicated individuals that have physical, psychological and health needs. These tend to change fairly rapidly during the early months of life. A puppy’s growth during the first two years (24 months) is equal to the first 22 years of your life. Approximately 12 years the first calendar year and ten the next year. The puppy will grow about one year of human development each 30 days. This means that the body and brain will undergo major changes every few months. Making sure these needs are met is the least expensive and easiest way to care for your new family member.

Routine Puppy Health Care Guidelines

1. Vaccinations: Infants and juveniles of all species, including dogs, have very little protection against infection after birth. However, this can be developed very quickly with regular vaccinations. Natural exposure to wild disease types is another option but can not be controlled and may result in serious disease. Typically, a puppy isgiven vaccines every 2-4 weeks from the age of 8 wks to 16+ wks (4 months). The frequency (every 2, 3 or 4 wks apart) is based on the degree of risk for infection in the local area. Some of the more serious viral infections have become fairly well controlled, but NOT eliminated, in the Los Angeles area and a 3 week booster schedule is recommended. BUT, this may be altered for certain home situations (travel plans, some high risk areas, show dogs, etc). Keep your puppy away from UNVACCINATED or SICK dogs and the areas they visit until all the boosters are completed!

- Distemper virus and Parvovirus (DA2PC or DHPPC) – Given every 3 weeks from 8 to 16 weeks. May be extended later if not given early enough or vaccine boosters missed. A minimum of 3 boosters is recommended for good protection. Parvovirus is everywhere in the dirt (especially dog parks, beaches and playgrounds where it survives up to 6 months) and is a painful, expensive, bloody vomit and diarrhea virus disease. Distemper virus is less common, but more easily passed to puppies and is usually fatal after a lengthy period of severe illness. Recovered distemper patients often suffer permanent brain damage and die at a young age. Vaccines are cheap, intensive care is not.

- Leptospira - Not generally recommended at the current time. While this is a potentially serious kidney and/or liver bacterial infection, it has been seen occasionally in the past 25 years in urban dogs. However, some new infection forms have just recently seen again, but are often not covered by the traditional vaccine. No new vaccines have been made available for the new strains diagnosed for cases of Leptospirosis. Also, the majority of vaccine reactions in dogs are attributed to this vaccine, and until new vaccine types are released, most vets do NOT recommend their use for almost all puppies. Hopefully, this problem will be resolved in the future by better and safer, new vaccines.

- Bordatella (“Kennel cough”) – Given every 2-3 weeks form 8 to 14 wks with at least two vaccines by 12 weeks. This is a very common upper respiratory infection in young dogs exposed to other dogs at parks, beaches, grooming parlors, kennels and other places that dogs meet. It causes a chronic cough that wears the puppy out, interrupts sleep and leads to bronchopneumonia. The vaccine is inexpensive, given by nose drop (reduces the risk of vaccine reactions) and the treatment for the infection is up to several hundred dollars.

- Rabies virus – Given at or after 16 weeks old, repeated one year later and then every 3 years after the first year booster. This protocol is set by California law and is designed to prevent the untreatable disease caused by the Rabies virus in humans and dogs. Puppies and dogs must be vacinnated, licensed and tagged. If a dog has been found to have bitten a human without these requirements in place, serious action, including quarantine for 2 weeks at the pound or examination of the brain at a lab can be required as part of the public health laws in California.

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- Other vaccines: Many other vaccines are available, but are not recommended, either because the do little to give protection, or the specific infection does not appear in our immediate area. It is important you let your vet know if the pup will be traveling, kenneled or moving out of the area, as this may be an indication for these other vaccine types, such as Lyme’s Disease, etc.

DHPP(C): 1._________wks 2.____________wks 3._________wks 4.________ wks 5. ____________wks

Bordatella: 1._________wks 2.____________wks 3._________wks Rabies: 1. ________wks

2. Fecal Tests:

The majority of puppies carry some type of intestinal parasite. This happens as Nature’s intended way of passing different types of worms and parasitic life- forms on to other dogs for their survival. Most animals and people outside of the US and Europe are infected lifelong with parasites. America is actually an exception to this rule. Since they can cause intestinal problems like vomit, bloody diarrhea and weight loss, it is important to identify which types are present and the get rid of them. Since each of the many types have size variation (microscopic to spaghetti length) and incubation periods (2 wks to 4 months), at least 2 fecal tests several weeks apart are recommended. This is because it is unknown when the incubation period was started. Treatments are generally very simple, quick and effective. Yearly tests will be done when the puppy is older, but be aware that reinfection can occur if the puppy is exposed to eggs and cysts at dog parks, beaches, etc. Eventually, most dogs with normal immune systems will develop resistance, but this may take many years to become protective.

3. Fleas and Ticks: Fleas live on blood and the bites are painful, can allow infections to be transmitted to new dogs and can promote flea allergies. Flea allergy dermatitis is a major problem in Southern California. Tapeworms can also be carried in fleas and will cause tapeworm infections if eaten by the puppy. Routine flea control every month after the age of 8 weeks is highly recommended. This should be done every month all year round at the current time due to the mild weather here. Different flea prevention topical applications are available based on the risk of tick bites, swimming/bath schedules and risk of heartworms.

4. Diet:

It is critical that your puppy stay on a growth formula until at least 1 year of age to support rapid growth and high protein + calcium needs. Many good brands are available. The breeder or store may have provided you with a high quality selection, such as Royal Canin, Iams, Science, etc. Continuing on past 1 year in some very tiny toy breeds may be needed to keep their weight up to normal levels because of their high activity and small stomach size.

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Several excellent lines are available locally, or online, and include Innova®, Blue Buffalo®, Wellness® (has probiotics and prebiotics included) and Evo® (includes a meat only kibble form also). Pets Naturally in Studio City and Petsdirect.com are good resources.

Puppies need to be fed appx. every 3 hrs to prevent low blood sugar (hypoglycemia). This means free feeding of dry kibbles and/or canned food 5-6 times per day. Puppy stomachs empty every 3 hrs at first. This will decrease over the next 6 months and can be fed 3-4 times by 8 months of age. Some foods should never be fed: - Raisins + grapes can cause kidney damage. - Onions/garlic can cause an anemia. - Chocolate can result in an “Amphetamine-Like” overdose reaction, and may include seizures or death. - Avocado can potentially result in fluid buildup in the lungs.

5. Intestinal Flora Support:

The intestinal contents are a true ecosystem. Invaders can upset the natural balance required for normal digestion. The result can be diarrhea, vomit or constipation. Keeping the gut happy is fundamental to good health in everyone. Probiotics are “good bacteria” that help stabilize the gut contents and help prevent against infectious organisms from getting established. These can be found in yogurt, buttermilk and blue cheeses (cultured dairy products). They can also be purchased as freeze-dried cultures in capsules or liquids (e.g., PowerdophilusTM, JarrodophilusTM or SpirodophilusTM at Whole foods mkt). These are generally higher in concentration for a few probiotic strains vs. a wider spread of probiotics in lower amounts in yogurt (plain is the highest source). Since puppies lick everything and often eat feces, this is a great way to try to stop or minimize diarrheas before they get started. This is not an exact science, but this practice has been shown to help reduce the number of intestinal visits to the vet. 1 to 2 large tablespoons daily at meals or as a treat is very supportive.

See the documents on Probiotics and prebiotics, Obesity, Vomiting and Diarrhea and Intestinal Parasites on this same webpage for more information.

6. Home Safety: Puppies are curious about their environment. Since they lack thumbs, everything goes in the mouth. It is how they discover new information. From there, foreign objects often end up in the stomach where toxic chemicals cause poisoning and solid objects can plug up the intestines. Both of these conditions can result in death in the right circumstances. There is no limit to what may be eaten: rubber, plastic, bones, toys, coins, etc. Therefore, every new owner should get down on the floor (the same view point as the puppy) with a flashlight and look for lost items under beds, dressers, cabinets, etc. Then vacuum every where. If you don’t find them, eventually, the puppy will. If so, they may be eaten before you can witness it.

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Rubber bands, paperclips and erasers plug up intestines and require x-rays, optic scoping and/or surgery to correct. Dimes, nickels and silver coins have zinc coatings and will cause serious bleeding in the stomach. Thumbtacks, needles and bobby pins can poke holes in the intestines resulting in peritonitis and requires hospitalization. PICK THESE ITEMS UP if you see them on the floor. It only takes 10 seconds for them to get down a throat and out of reach OR into the trash, thanks to you. Think of it as putting $1500.00 in your pocket every time instead of just a toy car or paperclip.

Cabinets should be fitted with child-proof finger locks from the hardware store. Kitchen cabinets a filled with risky items like sponges, soaps, detergents, Brillo pads, cleaning rags. Bathroom cabinets have paper (toilet paper rolls, paper towels) and cotton (cotton balls/Q-Tips, face pads, etc) products that puppies can’t seem to resist eating. These swell up inside and are hard to get out of the stomach.

Trash cans should be tall enough to prevent them being knocked over AND have a solid lid (step-type metal pails with a pedal) to prevent access to trash. Anything that touches food smells like food and is tempting for puppies. Ziplock bags, chicken bones, tin foil, etc do not pass though puppies well and may require surgery to get them out. Food poisoning is another risk when food scraps are eaten hours after being thrown away.

Clothes hampers are important, as dirty clothes piled on floors or in low baskets are too tempting for puppies to ignore. Eating dirty socks and underwear is something some puppies will do more than once. Each episode requires a trip to the vet. A tall hamper from Target or Sears will solve this problem unless it is a large breed dog. Then, one locked behind a door is required.

Cat boxes are frequently used as grazing stops. Cat stools are often consumed by puppies and dogs as “Almond Rocha nuggets” and can result in severe intestinal infections (e.g., E. coli, etc). Keep cat boxes up high and out of reach or behind closed doors.

Electrical wires coated in plastic or rubber offers a great chewing source with puppies having teething pain. Puppies get two complete sets of teeth between 2 and 7 months of age. These new teeth make for sore gums. However, electrical shock can burn tongues, stop hearts and cause seizures or brain death. Coiling cords up and using self-locking hardware strips so that they can be hung up or taped out of reach is simple and cheap. Longer, heavy cords, like those for computers and refrigerators, can be covered with hollow plastic strip covers from the hardware store until the puppy is 1 year old and no longer interested. Masking tape can be used to hold the track down.

Toxic plants are often found in potted plants and yards. The petals, leaves, fruits, bark or roots may be toxic, and some are fatal in the right amounts. Consult the

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ASPCA website at the poison control center to see pictures of toxic plants plus their names, actions and care guidelines. Website is below: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/

Sweaters are important during cold wet winter weather and during air conditioning use in hot weather. Floors, especially hard floors, are much colder than the air in the room. This condition results a “heat sink” phenomena. Puppy’s hearts are very close to the skin and therefore, have little insulation against heat loss when they sleep on the floor. This can lead to pneumonia. Sweaters or sweatshirts for puppies cost $10 or $15 and can be easily removed when in bed or put back on for a cold weather walk. Puppy pneumonia is very serious and fees can run in the hundreds to thousands of dollars.

Harnesses are easier on the puppy if an emergency situation requires that they be picked up quickly. Big dogs, cars and unwanted strangers may not always be in your puppy’s best interest. Collars place a high degree of pressure on the spine and neck. Harnesses are reasonably priced and can avoid potential future neck surgery because the lift around the chest.

7. Body and Social Development:

Puppies’ brain development follow children’s’ very closely. New nerves are grown every hour and respond to stimulation via brain chemical transmitters. If not, they die very quickly to make way for new nerves that may be more useful. Once they are gone, it is forever. Memory, IQ, taste, eyesight, muscle skills, etc are all dependent on this process. The more stimulation the puppy gets early in life, the better the skills and personality will be developed. This is well documented in children starting at or before 6 months of age (6 wks in the puppy) and is called Neural Pruning or Neural Darwinism. The idea is that starting at 6 weeks of age, the more you handle, speak with and teach the puppy, the higher the IQ, physical and mental abilities will become later in life. This includes both human and dog social skills (two different areas of the brain). Getting the puppy to meet with other puppies or young dogs your friends/family members will help tremendously. Puppy play dates with healthy and vaccinated puppies can also be arranged with many dog training academies (Perfect Puppy Academy in Studio City, CA).

Parent dogs teach by example and body language. Since we lack long ears and a tail, extra hand gestures, fluctuating voice tonality, facial expression and repetitive training will be helpful for your furry kid to understand what you want them to do. Also, dogs discipline, they do not punish. They stop unwanted behaviors with a “game face”, a growl and a paw to get puppy’s’ attention. THEN, they show the puppy what to do, with positive reinforcement so it is done correctly. Just saying no and yelling doesn’t give the puppy any instruction and they can not think the plan up on their own. This is punishment. Teaching and lots of praise is the key to giving your puppy a “big dog” job. Every dog needs a job to feel needed, safe and a real permanent member of the new “dog pack”.

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Since you are now the new “Alpha dog”, it is your job to give the puppy their new job(s) to feel like you are in control and keeping everything safe, including them. The true job for the puppy is to be a well-behaved family member and these skills can be included in play time and daily interactions. Puppy behavioralists are sometimes very helpful, since infants and juveniles see the world very differently than we do as human adults. An interpretation and guidance (puppy coaching) sometimes makes the job much easier and faster if they can make sense of a childhood phase that appears without warning and is complicating the bonding process.

8. Neuter Surgery:

Every puppy not destined to be a breeder dog should be neutered (castrate for males, spayed for females) at 6 months of age. This is for health purposes. Unfixed dogs are at a much higher rate for certain reproductive diseases (esp testicular/prostate or mammary gland cancers) later in life. These are often difficult to fix or fatal after surgery and/or radiation/chemotherapy. The costs are extremely high and, to date, nothing easier or better is available for these terrible diseases. A reasonable cost neuter will go along way in helping you pet stay out of the hospital many years from now. Breeder dogs should be neutered at or after 5 to 7 years old when their optimal breeding age is over. Also, owners of intact dogs are charged $250.00 more each year for the rabies license by LA County due to puppy overpopulation. In 15 years of ownership, this equals an extra $3750.00 in costs which must be paid for by dog breeders as a new business tax.

9. Microchipping:

If your puppy did not come with a microchip identification in place already, then consider getting one. It is inserted above the shoulder blades in a quick process that provides a permanent means of identification. This will be crucial in returning your puppy to you in case of theft, fires, break-ins or earthquakes. Some companies (Home AgainTM) also offer injury medical repair coverage, shipping fees back home and other benefits if your pet is lost and/or injured. It is important to register this chip number to you and your home so that you are contacted in the event that a puppy becomes lost.

10. Health Insurance:

Every owner should consider buying a health insurance policy before a puppy has been found to have a pre-existing condition. This allows for the full benefits of a policy to be used. Different companies offer various packages of coverage at different premium levels. Some have more preventive care and some less. Costs vary by breed, age and maximum coverage, just like for us. Catastrophic-only coverage is also available. This is not a third party program, as you will pay fees up front and the your vet will help you get reimbursed. While many companies offer policies, some of the better companies for honoring claims are ASPCA and Best Pets. With veterinary costs rising during the life of your dog, this may help pay for routine and/or major medical care that would otherwise be a bigger out- of-pocket expense.